Murree to Balakot – Four Wheeling in the Himalaya

ByBunyaad

We started today with a good buffet breakfast at the Maisonette Firhill, our hotel in Murree. Then we all piled into the trusty Bunyaad Toyota Land Cruiser and headed off toward Jared.

The view from Maisonette Firhill in Murree. The snow capped Himalayan Mountains are in the distance.
The view from Maisonette Firhill in Murree. The snow capped Himalayan Mountains are in the distance.
Ehsan, the driver, and Doug, riding shotgun
Ehsan, the driver, and Doug, riding shotgun, are ready for a long drive in our trusty Land Cruiser.

We had some great views of the mountains as we headed toward the Neelum Valley and the road to Jared.

Looking back towards Murree, where we stayed the night.
Looking back towards Murree, where we stayed the night.
Brilliant snow capped mountains.
Brilliant snow capped mountains.
Rows of blue foothills leading up to the massive, snow capped Himalaya.
Rows of blue foothills leading up to the massive, snow capped Himalaya.

After about 1.5 hours of driving on very twisty roads we crossed the Neelum River to the east side, the Kashmir side, and started driving up the east side of the river. Soon we came to a frontier check post where the official looked into our vehicle. He assumed Doug Horst was a Pakistani due to his full beard, but when he looked at me, Doug Dirks, he saw a foreigner right away and demanded my passport. By that time we had to admit that Doug Horst was a foreigner too and we both had to go into the inspection booth.

Turns out that there is some tension between Pakistan and India over Kashmir territory that they both claim and foreigners can’t visit without a special permit. We did not have a special permit so we had to turn back. Rather than going all the way back to Murree we decided to drive up over the mountain and take another route through Abbotabad, Mansehra and Balakot.

We drove over small landslides, around bigger landslides, forded small streams, bounced over bumps, rocks and boulders, turned around a couple of times because really big landslides blocked the way and finally twisted and turned our way over the mountain and on the main road to Abbotabad. We gained and lost over 5,000 feet in elevation in the process and added about 4 hours to our journey—lots of fun actually.

tea and snack stall
Along the way we stopped at a tea and snack stall where we had some steaming chai, fresh roasted corn on the cob and aloo pakora (deep fried, batter dipped potato).
Apples are in season! So, let's load them up in the family sedan and take them to market.
Apples are in season! So, let’s load them up in the family sedan and take them to market.
Mountain view along the way to Balakot.
Mountain view along the way to Balakot.
Pine forest on the lower elevations.
Pine forest on the lower elevations. The lower branches are often stripped and used for animal fodder and firewood. This leaves the trees looking like Sneed from the Lorax, a Dr. Seuss book.

We drove through Mansehra and headed on towards Balakot. At Balakot we found the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) Hotel and decided to stay for the night. Tomorrow we will continue on towards Jared to visit the rug makers in training before heading back to Lahore.

Stay tuned for Doug’s next trip post

We hope you’ve been enjoying the notes, experiences and photos and have been able to follow our adventures on the Bunyaad blog so far. Here is a link to all of the posts: Read Pakistan Learning Tour

Similar Posts

  • | |

    The Dougs learn about Education and Washing Rugs

    ByBunyaad

    Students lined up for the beginning of the school day at St. John’s.

    After a hearty breakfast at the Chaman home we walked across the street to visit St. John’s school. The school is on the same property as St. John’s church. The school has 168 students from Kindergarten to grade 10 and 13 teachers. Families that can afford to pay a small monthly tuition. Families that can’t afford to pay can send their children for free. The Principal, Ms. Mehrul Nisa, said that 60% of the students go on to college.

  • | | |

    Peoples Lives are Entwined in each Bunyaad Rug

    ByBunyaad

    Razia teaching Gwen how to knot rugsGwen Repeta, manager of the Ten Thousand Villages store in Winnipeg, MB and Rug Program Coordinator for Ten Thousand Villages Canada, joined us on our two-week trip to Pakistan this past January. This is Gwen’s second trip to visit the Bunyaad artisans (her first in May 2005). Gwen’s long-term commitment to the program showed in her interaction with the artisans and deep interest in wanting to learn more about how Fair Trade really works.

  • The Dougs Arrive in Lahore, Pakistan

    ByBunyaad

    Doug Horst and Yousaf Chaman

    We (Doug Horst & Doug Dirks) left Lancaster, PA at 4 pm on November 10 and drove to JFK airport in New York with Marion Schrock serving as our airport driver. We checked into our Emirates flight at 9:30 pm and were in the air by 11 pm.

    After 11 hours in the air we landed in Dubai to change flights and take off again for Lahore, Pakistan. Our flights were smooth and uneventful and we easily cleared customs and picked up our bags in Lahore. We were very happy to see the smiling faces of Yousaf and Ehsan as we exited the airport baggage area. It was 3 am on Thursday, November 12, by the time we reached the Chaman family home in Saeed Park.

    We enjoyed a breakfast of fried eggs,
    coffee, saag and chicken.

    By 4 am we gladly fell into bed after more than 24 hours of total travel time. Doug and Doug work up late, just in time to have “breakfast” at 2 in the afternoon. After enjoying a breakfast of fried eggs, coffee, saag (spinach) and chicken we (Yousaf, Doug and Doug) drove to the Bunyaad/JAKCISS office and warehouse to pick up Ehsan.

  • |

    Hot Steaming Water Buffalo Milk served by Fauzia

    ByBunyaad

    Fauzia steams milkWhen you come to any of our rug rooms and during all of our rug events across the US and Canada you get a glimpse into the world of rug making and see the artisans at work in the video “Introduction to Oriental Rugs” that is shown throughout the day. As staff I have watched this video hundreds of times. My work in the Bunyaad office also involves working with lots and lots of artisan photos. So when visiting Pakistan this year it felt almost surreal meeting these same artisans for the first time and yet feeling like I have known them for a long time.

    It is with great pleasure that I get to introduce two of these young women to you who have both been rug knotters with Bunyaad for the past eight years. Fauzia and Sofia live with their parents in the small village of Halwan about two hours north of Lahore. After finishing their schooling, they both started knotting rugs as this allowed them a good income and the ability to stay home with their parents.

  • | | |

    The Dougs Say Goodbye and Farewell Pakistan

    ByBunyaad

    Doug and master designerWe enjoyed a great time in Pakistan. Everywhere we went we met friendly, helpful and incredibly hospitable people. It seemed like everyone wanted to shake our hands and give us a hug. On Sunday afternoon, while touring the old Lahore Fort, a number of people wanted their pictures taken with us. Contrary to what we hear and read in the media about Pakistan, it’s a great place to travel – safe, friendly, hospitable and very scenic.

  • | | |

    Juggling Family, Household and Work

    ByBunyaad

    Bunyaad artisans Arshad, Mustaq and family

    Let Me Introduce: Arshad

    Arshad, usually called by her nickname Bebe, and her family live in the village of Darianwala located approximately six miles from the Indian border in Northeast Pakistan.

    Arshad and her husband Mustaq have been working for Bunyaad for the past five years (since 2009). Prior to joining Bunyaad the family had been drifting from place to place in hopes of finding work that would support the entire family. As a woman working outside the home would not have been acceptable for Arshad and so the challenge of providing for the entire family rested on Mustaq’s shoulders.

    How does a family in rural Pakistan make ends meet when jobs are scarce and mostly seasonal?