Carrying a bundle of flowers at the flower market.
We got up early on Sunday morning and went with Yousaf and Ehsan to the flower market. Ehsan goes every Sunday morning to buy flowers for the church service at St. John’s church in Saeed Park, right across the street from the Chaman family home.
Narrow alley near St. John’s church in Saeed Park. Note the almost overlapping balconies near the top.
Semi nomadic people camp out with their camels along the Ravi River near the Chaman family home in Saeed Park.
Ehsan is negotiating the price for Sunday morning church flowers.
Prices have been agreed to and being totaled up.
Another bundle of flowers has been sold and is carried out.
After the flower market we picked up Afaq at his home and went out for breakfast at the Bundu Khan outdoor restaurant. We had the ‘Desi Nashta’ (local breakfast) that included 2 puri, bhujia, chany, halwa yogurt, lassi and chai. What a great last breakfast in Lahore.
Next we drove over to the old city of Lahore and toured the fort. The foundations were laid in the 2nd century BC by Hindu people. Later in the 15th and 16th centuries, the Mughals improved and enlarged the fort. Mughal emperors who added to and embellished the fort included Akbar, Jehangir and Shahjahan (also built the Taj Mahal in India). The British also used the fort during the Raj when Lahore was still part of larger India.
Badshahi Mosque in old Lahore. Total capacity is 100,000 worshippers. Minarets are 196 feet tall.
Afaq and Yousaf walking through a gateway at the entrance to a Haveli (large house or mansion from the Mughal age) just outside the old city wall.
People crowding though the main gate of the Lahore fort.
Tile work on the wall just after entering through the main gate of the Lahore Fort.
The Sheesh Mahal (hall of mirrors) inside the Lahore Fort.
Intricately carved stone grillwork window in the Sheesh Mahal.
Mirror and glass work on the domed roof of the Sheesh Mahal.
Close up detail of mirror and glass work at the Sheesh Mahal.
Inlaid semi-precious stones at the Lahore Fort.
Lapis Lazuli, Carnelian and other semi-precious stones make up this flower design.
More inlaid semi-precious stones at the Lahore Fort.
Ehsan and his kids, Shamil and Zara. Actor dressed in Mughal era dress is in back.
Actor in Mughal era dress at the Lahore Fort.
Pakistani tourists at Lahore Fort. It was good to see so many people enjoying Sunday afternoon at the fort – one of Pakistan’s premier cultural heritage sites.
The Dewan E Khas (hall of private audience) at the Lahore Fort. This is where the Maharajah welcomed guests and dignitaries.
Yousaf and Afaq descending the steps on the way out of the Lahore Fort. The Mughal Maharajahs rode their elephants in and out of the fort on this stairway.
We finished up the day with relaxing and visiting at the Chaman family home. In the evening we packed our bags and headed out to the airport for our 3am flight on Emirates Air to Dubai and on to JFK airport in New York. We’ll be back home by Monday evening, November 23.
Hang in there, one more trip post is coming
We hope you’ve been enjoying the notes, experiences and photos and have been able to follow our adventures on the Bunyaad blog so far. Here is a link to all of the posts: Read Pakistan Learning Tour.
We’d love for you to share our adventures and the stories and faces of Pakistan, especially of our Bunyaad artisans.
When you come to any of our rug rooms and during all of our rug events across the US and Canada you get a glimpse into the world of rug making and see the artisans at work in the video “Introduction to Oriental Rugs” that is shown throughout the day. As staff I have watched this video hundreds of times. My work in the Bunyaad office also involves working with lots and lots of artisan photos. So when visiting Pakistan this year it felt almost surreal meeting these same artisans for the first time and yet feeling like I have known them for a long time.
It is with great pleasure that I get to introduce two of these young women to you who have both been rug knotters with Bunyaad for the past eight years. Fauzia and Sofia live with their parents in the small village of Halwan about two hours north of Lahore. After finishing their schooling, they both started knotting rugs as this allowed them a good income and the ability to stay home with their parents.
On Saturday, November 14, we took a 6 hour drive south down to Chistian, a community that Bunyaad has been working in for 6 years. The Chistian area has a long history of Persian rug making. Bunyaad needed more rug making capacity and learned that talented rug makers in Chistian often did not have enough work and were sometimes exploited by unscrupulous rug buyers. Mr. Shah was recruited to be the local Bunyaad Rug Supervisor and today families operating 75 looms are supplying top quality Persian rugs to Bunyaad.
I sit beside Rafia Nasir on the loom where she works on a 6×9 Persian rug with her two sisters.
Rafia is a new mom, just like I am. She holds her nearly 8 month old little girl, letting her grab at the taut warp threads as she takes a break from her work. Rafia chuckles as I have to run and change my son’s diaper, tossing him down on her charpai, a rope bed, in the middle of her home and asking if she minds if I change him there. It’s my son’s first trip to the villages of Pakistan and at age 2, he’s taking it all in, including the chicken running into the house from the outside courtyard.
We (Doug Horst & Doug Dirks) left Lancaster, PA at 4 pm on November 10 and drove to JFK airport in New York with Marion Schrock serving as our airport driver. We checked into our Emirates flight at 9:30 pm and were in the air by 11 pm.
After 11 hours in the air we landed in Dubai to change flights and take off again for Lahore, Pakistan. Our flights were smooth and uneventful and we easily cleared customs and picked up our bags in Lahore. We were very happy to see the smiling faces of Yousaf and Ehsan as we exited the airport baggage area. It was 3 am on Thursday, November 12, by the time we reached the Chaman family home in Saeed Park.
We enjoyed a breakfast of fried eggs, coffee, saag and chicken.
By 4 am we gladly fell into bed after more than 24 hours of total travel time. Doug and Doug work up late, just in time to have “breakfast” at 2 in the afternoon. After enjoying a breakfast of fried eggs, coffee, saag (spinach) and chicken we (Yousaf, Doug and Doug) drove to the Bunyaad/JAKCISS office and warehouse to pick up Ehsan.
After enjoying a delicious breakfast of fried eggs, paratha and tea at the Chaman home we drove to the Bunyaad office and warehouse on Nicholson Road to meet the staff and learn more about rug making.
A royal reception was waiting for us when we entered the front door. We had greetings all around with the more than 20 staff people on hand. Doug Horst and I (Doug Dirks) were presented with a basket of gifts that included new Bunyaad mugs and new Bunyaad business cards for both of us.
On November 10, Doug Horst and I (Doug Dirks), from the Bunyaad office at Ten Thousand Villages in Ephrata, Pennsylvania, will fly to Pakistan to visit rug makers and learn about rug making. We will join Yousaf Chaman who traveled to Pakistan a week earlier.
We are very much looking forward to this two week trip because we will meet rug makers and their families in their homes, right where Bunyaad rugs are created. This will help us to better understand how rugs are made, who makes them and under what circumstances they are made. We’ll get to visit and stay in rug making villages so we can soak up local culture and enjoy wonderful village hospitality. The food will be delicious and the conversations will be delightful.
One Comment
Thanks so much Doug Dirks for all these pictures and journals. I have so enjoyed the journey! It made me remember so much of our visit to Pakistan and the Chaman home, even the PTDC guest house in Swat we stayed in.
Wonderful pictures! I hope I can use them.
Thanks so much Doug Dirks for all these pictures and journals. I have so enjoyed the journey! It made me remember so much of our visit to Pakistan and the Chaman home, even the PTDC guest house in Swat we stayed in.
Wonderful pictures! I hope I can use them.
Jane